I apologize for missing my second blog post. I picked up a pretty bad bug while we were in Shaxi Village and I was bedridden for the next two days, missing most of our current trek in Lijiang. It got to the point where I had to go to a local hospital in Lijiang. Luckily, our tour guide, Evan, was there to help us out. He translated everything the doctors and nurses said, making sure I got what I needed, from treatment to an actual bed. Mike and Ms. Moy faithfully stuck by my side, braving the long night and providing much needed lightheartedness.
But back to what we did today (2/20). Mike was feeling under the weather so the the group took it easy. We visited a local museum dedicated to Naxi culture. The Naxi are the predominant minority in this region, just as the Bai people are in Dali. Numbering fewer than a million, the Naxi culture is trying to be preserved by the government, hence this museum being set up. The most well-known fact about the Naxi is that they have their own language, which is based on pictographs. Yet, only a few Naxi members can read and write their pictographic language to this day. These members are Naxi priests or shamans, called "Dongbas." We found out that there are only twenty-five living Dongbas in the world, one of which was working at the museum itself. Unfortunately, he was out on a break so we didn't see our "Dongba"
We then explored Baisha Village, which is roughly 20 minutes from Lijiang. We started off with a delicious lunch by the road. Our favorite dish turned out to be fried cow milk dipped in a bit of sugar. It was just the right balance between fluffy and crunchy. After lunch, we visited a local guesthouse. With the snow capped Jade Dragon Mountain, the highest mountain in this region, just peaking over the rooftop, the guest house was perfectly situated. It was built around a square courtyard, with a small inlet running around it. It was pleasant to sit in the middle of the courtyard, with a light breeze at your back, warm sun on your face, and small goldfish circling you via the inlet.
Our next stop was the Baisha Naxi Embroidery Institute. The Naxi men and women are known for their handcrafts. The men are known for their intricate woodblock carvings (similar to ones we did in 8th grade art) in which they carve multiple but different layers of wood and when put together, comprise a finished painting (almost like a stencil). We watched a local master labor away on a piece while our hostess explained the process and the subject of his carving.
The Naxi women on the other hand are known for their beautiful embroidery. We observed a student practicing her embroidery, and discovered (after several wrong guesses) that the finest pieces of silk used in this type of embroidery are really comprised of 128 smaller threads put together. We were especially taken by the exhibition halls that boasted what must be have been some of the most exquisite embroidery one can find on the planet. Most pieces had brief profiles on their authors/makers attached.. Some pieces took several years to put together, even if done by masters with as many as thirty five years under their belts.
We closed out our trip to Baisha by relaxing in the courtyard of the Embroidery Institute. Our hostess poured us tea while we enjoyed each other's company (including that of the many stray but friendly dogs that call the Institute "home"). Tonight we fly out to Xian, where we will see the famous Terra-cotta soldiers. I have to say, I'm really going to miss Evan and Mr. Tian (our skillful driver), who have been our loyal companions for the last five days.
Until we cross paths again,
Brandon
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